A Brief History of Arran.

Introduction
Brodick
Corrie
Kildonan
Kilmory
Lamlash
Lochranza
Pirnmill
Shiskine
Whiting Bay

Introduction

‘When you step ashore on to Arran’s soil to travel to your Arran hliday cottage you follow in the footprints of millions who have gone before. Over 200 million years ago the Chirotherium (a large long-legged lizard like creature) left its tracks on Arran, and reminders of others are found in burial cairns and castles, from standing stones and axeheads. In photographs and written and oral memories, and to this day, the residents of Arran are making their contribution to Arran’s fascinating story.

The first visitors, hunters and fishermen (and still they come!) splashed ashore, between 7000-4000BC, the Middle Stone Age. They were followed by the farmers who brought animals and cereal crops and so began the history of Arran relating to the people. From then on Arran drifted through the Bronze and Iron Ages, eventually to become part of Dalriada, ruled from Ireland and Gaelic was the language. Roman galleys did sail the Clyde, but, curiously, no evidence of their landing has ever been found on the island. Hard to believe they did not fancy catching a galley to Arran for the weekend.

The forces of religion began to make their mark, in 545, with the founding of a monastery by St. Brendan, patron saint of sailors, possibly at Kilpatrick. St. Columba is reputed to have visited Arran, but it is his disciple St. Molois, who settled in his cave on the Holy Isle sometime after 585, who is associated with Arran. Perhaps there is a spiritual aura to the Holy Isle as it is now a Buddhist retreat, though visitors are always welcome.

By 800 Arran had entered a long period of Viking domination and the blood of the Vikings must surely have mingled with that of the people of Arran. By 870 Olaf the White controlled the Firth of Clyde and it is thought that the remains of the Viking ship burial at Kings Cross may have been from that period. As the years passed Arran seems to have changed hands, regularly and probably violently, between the Vikings, the Celts, the Stewarts and Somerled, Lord of the Isles and his descendants. It was the Battle of Largs in 1263 that saw the beginning of the end of Viking domination, when the Scots under Alexander the 4th Steward of Scotland, defeated the Vikings under Haakon of Norway. By 1371, Robert 11, a Stewart, became King of Scotland, and Arran became his hunting ground. For the remainder of the 1400’s Arran was raided, in turn, by the English, the MacDonalds, Donald Balloch, and the men of the northern isles. Confusing for the islanders…“Och no, the MacDonalds raided last week.”

The 1500’s saw much of the same. A Hamilton became Earl of Arran and feuding ensued between the Hamilton’s and the Stewarts, the latter being reluctant to hand over Arran and the security of Brodick Castle. This was in 1503 and in 1526 they were still feuding, and the Stewarts burnt Brodick Castle. In 1544, the Earl of Lennox, an agent for Henry V111 of England, attacked Brodick Castle, and death and destruction visited the island once more.

It did not get much better in the 1600’s. The National Covenant, 1638, brought more strife and, sadly, division within families. The Covenanters, under the Duke of Argyle and the Campbells, took Brodick Castle from the 3rd Marquis of Hamilton. This said marquis could not have too thrilled to discover that his mother had raised troops for the Covenanters. Arran was not returned to the Hamiltons until 1656, when the Lady Anne Hamilton, heiress to the 2nd Duke of Hamilton, married William Douglas, the Earl of Selkirk, and paid off the fines levied on her family for their part in the war.

Prior to being returned to the Hamiltons, Arran was briefly occupied by Cromwell’s troops. Cromwell, worried by reports of Dutch vessels skulking around the Scottish coast, sent 80 soldiers to Arran. Arran is their resting-place as they were eventually all ambushed and killed by the Arran men for paying too much attention to the Arran women.

What was possibly the first commercial ferryboat, with sails and four oars, plied the waters between Arran and Bute in 1684, and failed because of lack of demand. A visitor in 1695 recorded that the air was temperately moist (it still is!) and there was great fishing of cod around Lamlash.

By the 1700’s life appeared to be more settled on Arran. The Hamiltons, well established in Brodick Castle, now gained, by peaceful means, possession of the last Montgomery lands at Lochranza, including the castle, Catacol and Machrie. There were schools at Kilmory and Shiskine. The Kirk greatly influenced the behaviour of the islanders. Breaking the Sabbath was frowned upon and transgressors were penalised by the Kirk Session. On the other hand financial help was given to needy parishioners and, in one case, money given to have a crofter’s son taught Latin.

With the implementation of the Malt Duty, which discouraged brewing and therefore encouraged the drinking of spirits, smuggling proved profitable, and to the islanders the Revenue men became a new enemy.

But still there was war. And it was to Auchengallon, in Arran, that Hector McAllister fled after the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The Hamiltons were staunch Jacobite supporters and Brodick appears to have been a hotbed of Jacobite intrigue and Hector had previously visited Arran in order to raise troops for this cause. Hector, his descendants and namesakes feature largely in the genealogical history of Arran.

Arran’s population in the 1750’ was, at 3646, fairly low. A weekly packet between Saltcoats and Arran was bringing health conscious visitors attracted by the goats milk offered at Cladach, Brodick. Huge changes were now set in motion on Arran with the arrival, in 1766, of John Burrell, at the request of the tutors of James, 7th Duke of Hamilton. Burrell ‘s intention was to banish runrig farming. His Journal (1766-1782), which makes interesting reading, was reprinted in 1982. It was an old Jacobite, James Bain Fullarton, who lead the inevitable resistance to Burrell’s plans for Arran.

The population count was rising, but the islanders were depressed by increased rents and by Burrell’s policies, which would lead to as many as 800 families losing their holdings and therefore their homes. He did, however, spend money on mining work at the Cock of Arran and boring for coal at Lamlash. Tenants at Corriecravie and Tormore were relieved of the collective responsibility of debt and he also offered incentives i.e.: 6 guineas for the best field of cabbages.

The 1800’s heralded the arrival of Robert Bauchop who surveyed on Arran for five years. His plans were in preparation for the new land divisions planned for 1814. A road was built between Brodick and Gorton Alister, Lamlash, paid for by the Government and the Landowner. This made travel much easier and increased the use of wheeled vehicles as opposed to heavy wooden sledges. Grave fears were expressed that many of the population had become “more openly abandoned in wickedness”. This frightening scenario probably prompted the religious revival lead by the Rev. Neil McBride.

As leases expired the old runrig system began to disappear. Arran farmers had to make good the debts of their neighbours to obtain the tenancies and were required to build a new house within a year, for which they were allowed relief of one year’s rent. In 1817 roads were built connecting Brodick and Shiskine (The String), Brodick and Sannox, and Lamlash and the South End (the Ross Road). Progress indeed.

Arran’s population reached an all time high of 6500 in 1823, and they must all have been excited when the steamboat “Helensburgh” began sailings from Greenock to Arran via Rothesay and back via Millport.

A steady trickle of islanders had been emigrating to North America over the years but it was the notorious clearances that caused the greatest exodus. Glenree had already experienced the replacement of people by sheep but it was in 1829 that the group which seems to have made the greatest impact when talking of Arran and the Clearances trudged from their homes in North Sannox, laden with everything from bibles to spinning wheels, to Lamlash, where the ships waited. 86 islanders boarded these ships for the two-month journey to Canada. Half their fares were paid for by the Duke of Hamilton; the men were given tobacco and the women tea. It must have been unforgettable to have witnessed those people, old and young, married, widowed and single, walking their last walk on Arran’s soil, some eager for adventure, but many with great apprehension and sadness in their hearts. The ancestors of these people still visit Arran and their story in Canada and in Arran will never be forgotten.

As the Arran immigrants arrived in Canada and began their new life, travel to Arran was becoming easier. The Royal Mail Packet Company introduced the “Inveraray Castle” and the “Toward” on a weekly run to Arran, with the strict warning that the smuggling of illicit goods would not be tolerated. With each season more vessels ran to Arran. Passengers were ferried from ship to shore, probably with some upsets. It is impossible to believe that everyone had a dry landing!

By the 1830’s the island was well supplied with schools and the population distribution had changed. Previously the southend had the greatest density but now there was a swing towards Brodick and Lamlash. A visitor to Brodick complained that it took fifteen enquiries to find accommodation and that the rents were enormous.

Lochranza was finally connected, in 1843, to Sannox and so to Brodick by the Bouguillie Road. Many islanders were still living in poverty and many emigrated. The arm of the law reached out to Arran and in 1863 the first policeman stepped off the ferry, hopefully onto dry land!

Arran’s first pier, an elegant iron construction, was built at Brodick, in 1872, and was soon followed by piers at Lamlash, Whiting Bay and Lochranza. These villages buzzed with activity as the graceful Clyde steamers docked and unloaded holidaymakers, cattle, sheep and horses, but it was not until 1897 that the first car was landed on Arran. From the islander’s perspective, laws and acts were passed which affected them. Education became compulsory between the ages of 5 and 13. In 1883 the islanders learned that Arran was not included in the area covered by The Crofters’ Act, so denying them the security of tenure, fixed rents and compensation for improvements available elsewhere in Scotland. They were eventually granted security of tenure in 1911.

Considering Arran’s early history of mayhem, it is indicative of how peaceful life had become when, in 1889, all Scotland was shocked by the Goatfell Murder and Arran got press coverage. High tech appeared in the form of a telephone connection between Brodick Castle and Dougarie Lodge and by 1913 there was a mainland link. After the death of the 12th Duke of Hamilton, in 1895, many restrictions regarding building were lifted and new homes promptly sprang up. In 1909 Brodick Castle installed a private turbine to provide electricity, but it was 1933, before the Arran Light and Power Company brought electric power to Arran with Brodick being the first village to benefit.

War Memorials appeared in Arran’s villages, permanent reminders of The Great War. A further Memorial, The Arran War Memorial Hospital, paid for by voluntary subscriptions (no lottery money then!), was officially opened in Lamlash in 1923, and it still serves Arran well. To encourage tourism a Guide Book was published and an ecological scare occurred when a stranded oil tanker leaked benzine at Bennan Head.

Between the wars, tourism and farming were the backbone of Arran’s economy. Charabancs appeared on the roads taking visitors on tours of Arran and tractors appeared on the farms.

With the outbreak of WW11, Lamlash once again became an important naval base, commandos trained on the beaches, mountains and moors, and sadly, numerous aircraft crashed on Arran’s hills.

After the war tourism revived. Each village had its own Tourist Officer. The boats were met by numerous bus companies serving different parts of the island. Each bus company had it own colours and the piers were a colourful melee of buses and visitors. Few cars came to the island and those that did were driven on to the deck of the steamer via two wooden planks. The first car ferry, the “Arran”, which carried 34 cars and 650 passengers, did not come into service until 1953 and heralded the beginning of changes in holiday patterns on Arran. Prior to that, on the island, various changes took place – The Arran High School took its first pupils in 1947, and Brodick, Lamlash and Whiting Bay got street lighting. The population in 1951 was 4656, and after a brief decline in the 1960’s and 70’s has remained around that level to this day. The 1950’s saw the closing of the piers at Whiting Bay and Lamlash, the end of an era. In 1957 another era ended with the death of the Dowager Duchess of Montrose and Brodick Castle became the property of the National Trust for Scotland.

In the 1970’s Brodick Pier was upgraded to take a larger ferry, the “Caledonia”. This ferry proved to be too large for the pier at Fairlie, which had, because of its sheltered position, been the mainland winter destination for the Arran boats, calling at Keppel, Cumbrae, on the way. Fairlie, apart from the actually berthing area, was a covered pier, the wooden building providing welcome shelter on the walk to the train. A very good idea.
The introduction of car ferries changed the holiday pattern. More visitors brought their cars, stayed shorter times and moved on. Previously families had taken homes for a month, sometimes two, and the minimum was two weeks.

Villages were more self contained before the era of the car, with tennis courts, golf courses and activities centred round the village halls and visitors who came annually to the same village, same house, quite often organised dances and events within “their” villages. Arran was very much a family holiday destination. In 1968, in Brodick alone, there were almost a hundred properties, ranging from hotel, guesthouse, self-catering to Bed and Breakfast on offer to the visitor. Arran has adapted to the shift in holiday patterns, there are fewer self-catering properties but the standard is higher, and there are more activities provided. Indoor sports facilities, coastal paths, outdoor adventure courses are now on offer in addition to the traditional ceilidhs, concerts and Highland Games. The Arran Heritage Museum offers an imaginatively presented insight into Arran’s history, and the National Trust for Scotland have a programme of special events at Brodick Castle…but it is the scenery and the special magic that Arran exerts which captures the visitors’ hearts.

Hopefully this has given you a flavour of Arran and it’s long and fascinating history. Further information can be found in the many books written about Arran and a visit to the Arran Heritage Museum is a must for anyone visiting this special island.

Brodick

‘Brethwic to Braidwick and finally in the Exchequer Rolls of 1456-7 it appears as Brodick from the Norse “breda-vick” meaning broad bay. It is into this same broad bay that the ferries sail today and apart from the buildings the view will have changed very little from that seen by the Vikings.
Brodick today is on the south side of the bay, but the original village was at Mossend, on the north side, near Cladach. Upwards of twenty families lived in a row of cottages known as The Street, which lined the road opposite Duchess Court (originally the Home Farm). These cottages were demolished between 1856-58 and the people moved to Douglas Row or New Street (now called Douglas Place) and Alma Terrace.

The modern village of Brodick has grown and expanded over the years. Arran’s first pier was built here in 1872. The Golf Club celebrated its Centenary in 1997. Brodick Hall was opened in 1895 with money raised by the Brodick Public Hall Company Limited. Generations of visitors and locals cherish fond memories of that old hall which is still the venue for concerts and dances and community activities, with the added bonus of the new library.

The 1920’s and 30’s saw the building of some fine hotels along the front. St. Denys was demolished to make way for the new Co-op building, Ennismore became the Arran Hotel, the Kingsley is now McLarens Hotel and Gywder Lodge has been converted into self catering apartments and called Craigielea. It was also during that time that Brodick began to spread beyond Springbank Farm.
More changes occurred during the 1960’s and 70’s. The garden fronting homes such as Kames Cottage, Lyndene, Castle View and others were removed in order to widen the road and inevitably some of the character of the village was lost.

Changes continue. Tides are higher and the beach is much smaller. No room now for the bathing huts which used to line the beach, their arrival heralding the beginning of the season and their removal, the end. Some buildings have disappeared, such as Cora Linn, which was Adolph Ribbeck’s shop and home, and in its place a development of modern homes. Across the bay the castle still stands and the magnificent view remains the same.

Brodick is the main ferry terminal for the island and the view of the mountains as seen from the ferry as she sails into the bay is second to none. Some find Brodick is too busy, but after the last ferry has left a peace settles on the village and nothing can surpass the calm of a summer evening in Brodick with the sea, the beach and the mountains.

NB: The information for this brief history of Brodick was gleaned from the History of the Villages of the Isle of Arran by the S.W.R.I Arran Federation. This very interesting book is available at many local outlets. ‘),

Corrie

Corrie, the name is derived from the Gaelic “coire”, meaning a ravine, but this charming village, with its harbours and white washed cottages, is strung out along the coastal road beneath the raised beaches and against the cliffs where once the seas pounded. Above Corrie, by the path leading up to Goatfell is the charming clachan of High Corrie, a cluster of traditonal white washed cottages with magnificent views of mountain and sea. The earliest mention of a building in Corrie was in 1449, which was a rungrig farm, the ruins of which can still be seen on the brae above the modern house of “Tigh-an-Achaidh”. Corrie’s rich red sandstone, seen in buildings and on the rocky shore, was once quarried there, along with the less obvious white sandstone. These quarries, along with the limestone quarry provided work for the villagers and two of the limestone kilns remain to this day.

The Free Church was built in 1848 and the Corrie Parish Church in 1886. The Free Church was sold as a private residence in the 1990’s. Corrie School was built in 1870 by the 11th Duke of Hamilton and the playground still swarms with children at playtime. A holiday in Arran should definitely include a ceilidh, which is a very informal, family orientated evening of dancing, music and song. Corrie Village Hall has been the scene of many a good ceilidh. The original hall was built from part of a fund raised during the Second World War to welcome soldiers back home. The present hall was built in 1969 and enlarged in 2000. One of Corrie’s curios is the Doctor’s bath. This is a bath carved into the sandstone rock on the shore by a Doctor McCredy, who stayed in “Cromla” at the time of Waterloo.

After the Second World War the first council houses were built at Corrie. Eventually, in the late 1960’s, Corrie Terrace, built of red sandstone for the quarry workers ,was demolished to make way for more council houses. Some of the original red sandstone from the Terrace has been incorporated into the present houses.

Corrie has always been a popular holiday village, from the days when the visitors were deposited on the shore at Ferry Rock to the present when they usually arrive by car via the ferry into Brodick or Lochranza. Many of the pleasures remain the same, walking along the shores or into the mountains, fishing, bird watching , and entering into the spirit of the famous “Corrie Capers”, one of Arran’s summer events.

Kildonan

‘The name Kildonan is derived from St. Donan, a 6th century disciple of St. Columba. St. Donan is said to be buried beside the mill wheel on Kildonan Farm, where there is also the foundation of a chapel.
Early life centered round Kildonan Castle, a square, four-storied keep. This was a Royal residence until 1405, when it was bestowed by King Robert on John Stewart of Ardgowan, later, in the 17th Century, it became part of the Hamilton estates. It is now a lonely ruin.

The village originated from the small clachans dotted round the district, the majority engaged in farming. Religion had great influence in each community, and The Free Church was the first church to be built in Kildonan. The Kirk Session was judge and juror in the many cases which came before them, which ranged from distribution of money to the needy, neighbours squabbles and illegitimate births. The present school was built in 1873, though the Church of Scotland Assembly had provided a school at Little Mill in 1828. Records show that in 1920 a total of 64 pupils attended the school, unfortunately these numbers declined and in 1968 the school closed. Kilmory pupils now attend Whiting Bay Primary School. The building has now been converted into self-catering holiday cottages.

The essential Village Hall was build during the First World War as a reading room, and was extended later to become the Hall as it is today.
The rocky shoreline round this area was the scene of many shipwrecks.Until recently Kildonan was the only Coastguard Station on the island, this was closed in 1981 and the Coastguard Officer for the island is stationed in Lamlash. Up until 1946 smacks and puffers were coming in to Yellow Port with provisions, coal and building materials.
Driving into Kildonan is like slipping gently back in time. It has beautiful beaches and birdsong, you can sit on a sun warmed rock and watch the seals and time will just slip by…probably far to quickly!

Kilmory

‘Kilmory (Kilmorie) is derived rom the Gaelic – Killmhuir . The disrict of Kilmorie stretches in the east from Craigdhu to Corriecravie in the west, the main road linking the villages of East and West Bennan, Shannochie, Lagg and Sliddery. The area has a reputation of being the home of giants. Glen Scorrisdale is reputed to have been the home of one imaginativley nick-named Scorrie, and Ossian is supposed to have been buried at Claughaig Farm.

In 1357 the patronage of the parish of Kilmorie was granted to Sir John Monteith, Lord of Arran, and it is connection with this that there is mention of a chapel at Kilmorie. It is thought to have existed about 300 yards up the side of the Sliddery Burn from the bridge. Below this is a pool still called the Churchyard Pool. The manse at Kilmory was built around 1690, was first roofed with thatch, but after a fire in 1710 was re-roofed with slate. Part of the old fabric still remains and it is the oldest inhabited manse in Scotland.

Much of the coastline is wild and rocky, but where there are beaches, they are beautiful. It was off these rocky shores that on 28th December, 1908, the ship “Bessie Arnold” ran onto the rocks in a blizzard. With the exception of the Mate all the crew perished, and it was the figurehead of the ship that served as their headstone in the churchyard. The figure head has been restored and now rests inside the Church.
The Southend has changed dramatically over the past two hundred years and within the past two or three generations is becoming a forest with a fringe of farms around the coast. The older generation of Kilmorie folk can recall a time when the interior of the island was well populated with clachans. Many have disappeared and only the names are left; Ballygonochie, Strathgael, Corriehaim and Gargadale. Farming has seen many changes and farmers have diversified into tourism, converting barns, byres and ruins into holiday cottages.
There used to be two Mills in the area, at Torrylin and Glenree., and a distillery at Lagg. Now industry is still farming, with the addition, in 1946, by The Milk Marketing Board, of the creamery at Torrylin. The cheese produced regularly wins awards. The Village Hall, essential to all Arran communities, was built in 1934, and like all the others, well used.

Kilmorie is a sprawling farming community, with a history of people and places intermingling through the centuries. To summarise it in one page is impossible, you have to stay there, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the softer scenery of the Southend, with its sweeping views of the sea and sky.

Lamlash

Lamlash Bay is dominated by the Holy Isle and many years ago Lamlash was called Loch an Eilean (the loch of the island). It was on Holy Isle, around 680AD, that St. Molias, a disciple of St. Columba, settled, and the cave he made his home still remains. This island, once called Eilean Molaise (Molaise’s Island), is now owned by the Buddhists and is a centre and retreat. The Holy Isle must indeed have a spiritual aura.
Lamlash Bay has sheltered many ships over the years. Haakon of Norway mustered his galleys there before the Battle of Largs in 1263, and after his defeat gathered the tattered remnants of his fleet in the shelter of the Holy Isle before leaving these shores forever. It was from Lamlash on 25th April, 1829, that the brig “Caledonia” sailed for Canada carrying 86 islanders from North Sannox. A memorial to this stands on the grass in front of Hamilton Terrace. The foundations of a harbour built by the Duchess Ann can still be seen at low tide.

During both wars Lamlash was an important Naval Base and prior to the First World War visits from the North Atlantic and Home Fleets were great social occasions. Naval personnel were given the courtesy of Lamlash Golf Club and in return presented trophies which are still played for. The signatures of the Prince of Wales (later to become King Edward VIII) and Prince Albert (later to become King George VI) can be found in Lamlash Golf Club Visitors Book. The Public Hall, which was built as a Naval Canteen before the First World War, was used during that conflict as a Red Cross Auxiliary Hospital for convalescent soldiers. During WW2 it was a wet canteen. Lamlash was also a base for the 11th Commandos.
The Isle of Arran War Memorial Hospital overlooking Lamlash Bay was raised on the suggestion of the Marchioness of Graham (later to become The Duchess of Montrose) as a fitting memorial to those who gave their lives in the the First World War. It was built, equipped and maintained by voluntary subscriptions and first opened to patients in 1922.

Some buildings in Lamlash have disappeared forever, but are not forgotten. The White House, originally built as a hunting lodge, was on the land beside the High School now designated for development. There was also a dyemill, mealmill and two quarries. Of the seven farms in the village only two remain, Clauchlands Farm and Glenkiln Farm.

Lamlash has grown over the years, but the bay and view of the Holy Isle remain virtually unchanged. Shipping still seeks the shelter of its bay, yachts rest at their moorings and children swim, play, fish and mess about in boats around the harbour. The formula for an Arran holiday for many years past.

Lochranza

Once again the Vikings were among the earliest visitors to Lochranza and it was they who named it Ranza. Until the end of the 19th Century Lochranza was one of the main herring fishing centres of the West coast with as many as four hundred men making their living from that, and the bay was often crammed with as many as three hundred fishing boats. The boats were small with a crew of four or five and, as you can imagine, the life was hard and many were lost at sea. The herring fishing brought prosperity to the village and when the herring disappeared, and why they did is still a mystery, the men had to find other work., which they did, turning to trade, industry and of course, the sea. At one time there were more Master Mariners belonging to Lochranza than to any other village on the West coast of Scotland. Today the bay provides moorings for a relatively small number of pleasure craft and the ferry between Lochranza and Claonaig goes quietly back and forth in the summer, causing a small stir in comparison with the bustling day of the Clyde steamers when they called in at the pier to be met by horse drawn carts and later by the buses. After lying derelict for many years the pier at Lochranza was re-opened in 2003 and, once again, the beat of paddles echoes across the bay as that wonderful old steamer “Waverley” sails into Lochranza.

Dominating the loch, is Lochranza Castle, standing firm on a strip of green land, its ancient walls restored by Historic Scotland, its story told by inlaid plaques and a lingering atmosphere of life and people long gone.

As with all the Arran villages Lochranza had its heyday with visitors arriving for their annual holidays, often the same family taking the same house for the same month through generations. Lochranza had, and still has, its golf course and Youth Hostel, has lost its tennis courts, but has gained the Distillery. It has lost some shops, and , alas, the Pier Tearoom, which was always a focal point for travellers and a meeting place for visitors and bus drivers.

Lochranza is yet another lovely, peaceful Arran village, but with its own distinctive character. It has its own brand of very friendly deer, who lounge and browse on the golf course and cool themselves down in the waters of the Loch., seals lazily sun themselves on the Newton Shore, eagles, unmistakable in their majesty, soar high above the village, and gannets dive into the bay. There are walks into the hills, or around the coast , the new Village Hall hosts ceilidhs and concerts, Lochranza Gala Week is fun filled….and the sunsets can be spectacular. What more can you ask for.

Pirnmill

The name Pirnmill is not based not on Gaelic or Viking roots but is very practically named after the mill that made pirns (wooden bobbins) for Clarks (latterly Coates) of Paisley. The mill, which was powered by a waterwheel, operated from 1780-1840 and ceased to function when the source of wood ran out Pirnmill is flanked by satellite clachans: Lenimore, Thunderguy and Auchamore to the north, and Altgolach, Whitefarland, Banliken and Imacher, to the south.

The original settlement of Penrioch (the brindled penny land) sprawled along the braes above the shore. In its heyday there were an astonishing number of clachans and cottages scattered along the hillside from Altgolach to Penrioch to Auchamore and beyond, All that remains today of many of these homes are tumbled grey stone walls filled with the silence of memories. In the early days the villagers made a living from fishing, crofting, some illicit distilling and smuggling, and later on when the larger homes were built along the shore, from catering to the visitors. For many years Pirnmill was a lively holiday centre with tennis courts, putting green, golf course and ceilidhs in what is now the Lighthouse Tearoom. Before the building of the pier at Lochranza and the introduction of bus services, the steamers stopped at Pirnmill and the visitors were ferried ashore by boat. In the 1940’s and ‘50’s the buses did a lively trade ferrying people to and from the steamer at Lochranza and to dances and the ”pictures” in Lochranza Hall. Houses have now been built on the site of the putting green, the site of the tennis courts is still obvious and if you look carefully around Penroich you can still see signs of tees from the golf course.

Pirnmill is a peaceful village with a wonderful shore line of rocks and sandy beaches, with access to some grand walks along the ridges of Beinn Bharrain and to the sheltered tranquility of Coirein Lochain, and is a prime spot to watch the magnificent sunsets over the Mull of Kintyre.

Sannox

‘Sand-vik – the sandy bay – was the name The Vikings gave to this tranquil corner of Arran, with its gently curved bay and majestic backdrop of mountains. In North Glen Sannox it is possible to stand within sight of an Iron Age Fort, the tumbled remains of the village, deserted since 1829 , whose occupants emmigrated to Canada, and the 1800’s farmhouse, now a trekking centre run by the McKinnon family, a name long associated with Arran. So much history, so many ghosts.

Sannox received a boost in 1840 with the opening of a Barytes mine in South Glen Sannox. It was closed by the 11th Duke of Hamilton in 1862 on the grounds that “it spoilt the solemn grandeur of the scene”. It probably did, but the loss of employment must have been severe. It was re-opened after the Great War and a wooden pier and light railway were built to ease shipment from mine to shore. The vein petered out in 1938 and the pier and railway were demolished in the late 1940’s. The ruins of the outbuildings can still be seen in the Glen.

Corrie and Sannox have always shared the burial ground at the entrance to South Glen Sannox. In the corner of the oldest part of the cemetery can be seen the remains of St. Michael’s chapel, which was affiliated, in the 14th Century, to the monastery at Kilwinning.

The lovely little church at Sannox was built in 1822. When the time came for the exiles from Arran to build a church in their new country, Canada, they built in a similar style to the one they had left behind

Sannox, like all Arran villages, has it own special charm. It also boasts a hotel and bar, a nine hole golf course with spectacular views and easy access to Arran’s fine hill and coastal walks.

Shiskine

Shiskine takes its name from a corruption of the Gaelic meaning a marshy place as in early times much of the valley was swampland, and is actually composed of several districts – Balmichael, Shedock, Feorline, Kilpatrick, Blackwaterfoot and Torbeg. The main centres of population today are Shiskine and Blackwaterfoot.

Thanks to tourism Blackwaterfoot has expanded over the last hundred years, but until the 1930’s it was the inland village of Shedog that was the hub of industry. Within an area of approximately half a mile there was a church, a school, a dressmaker, a public hall, a police station, a tailor, two joiners, a library, a saddler, two shops, a smiddy, a transport depot, a post office, a meal mill, a public house, a hotel, a doctor and Balnacoole and Shedog, two of the largest farms on Arran. After the First Word War these farms were divided into small holdings for the returning servicemen.
Blackwaterfoot was originally the hamlet that clustered round the harbour and was the port for Shiskine. It was dominated by a stupendous cairn, which by the mid 1880’s had almost disappeared, the stones being used for houses and dykes. The area was excavated around 1900 and a cist grave containing a bronze dagger decorated with gold was found. In 1896, as Blackwaterfoot developed as a tourist centre, the Shiskine Golf and Tennis Club, came into being when its unique 12 hole golf course was laid out at Drumadoon. The club has gone from strength to strength and in 2001 the tennis courts were upgraded with new surfacing and floodlights.

That Shiskine is a vibrant community is shown by the work done by the Shiskine Valley Trust, which was formed in the 1990’s . The Trust aims to develop community projects. That it succeeds in it aims was proven by the opening of the Blackwaterfoot Playing Field in 2000. The Shiskine Village Hall at Torbeg was once the United Free Church. It is a much used venue for playgroups, ceilidhs, dances , auctions and anything else the community at Shiskine can think of!

The beach at Blackwaterfoot must be mentioned. Stretching for sandy miles below the golf course at Drumadoon, it draws people from all over the island whatever the weather or season…and of course, the sunsets can be spectacular. This coast offers walks along to the King’s Cave, allegedly the hiding place of Robert the Bruce, and atop the towering cliffs of Doon, the remains of an ancient fort and sanctuary. So much to see, to do and to wonder at.

Whiting Bay

Whiting Bay is comprised of several districts – Kings Cross, Sandbraes, Auchencairn, Knockankelly, North, Mid and South Kiscadale, Largiemhor, Largiemeanoch and Largiebeg. There is much evidence of pre-historic habitation; the Giants Graves being the best known. The Vikings left their dead in the burial mound at Kings Cross. An early visitor was Robert the Bruce and it was from Kings Cross that he sailed to the mainland and to victory, proving that there is nothing like a holiday on Arran to set you up for any battles ahead.

The village of Whiting Bay has grown little by little from clusters of cottages on the shore and on the braes to crofts and farms, houses and hotels. The road to Lamlash used to go by Auchencairn until 1843 when the main shore road was built and gravelled. It was not tarred until the 20th century. Contact with the mainland was on an irregular basis by wherry or rowing boat (in calm weather!). Locally owned smacks brought their cargoes into the burn mouths and unloaded into carts. Later passengers were landed from steamers at Kings Cross and, even after the pier at Whiting Bay was built, the steamer still called in at Kings Cross.

Whiting Bay, as we know it today, began to take shape around the end of the 18th century with the construction of the pier and the expansion of businesses and the tourist trade and the opening of the golf course, tennis courts, bowling and putting greens. The golf course is thriving as is the bowling and putting greens but the tennis courts have gone. The village Hall was opened in 1926 and no-one was allowed to set foot on the new floor unless they were wearing soft shoes. The hall has been a focal point of the village ever since, prior to that the school was used for entertainment.

Whiting Bay shore has a mixture of beautiful sandy beaches and interesting rock formations, lots of seabirds and a particularly large swan population. One of the favourite walk is to Glen Ashdale Falls. A walk past farms and fields, along forest paths edged with ferns, mosses and lichens, and past the tumbled stones of pre-historic forts. Not a long walk but so much to see, to reflect on and to enjoy…like Arran.

Jean Glen

NB: The information for this brief history of Arran was gleaned from the very comprehensive “History of the Villages of the Isle of Arran” by the S.W.R.I. Arran Federation. The latest revised edition is now available in many local outlets.’);

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